Руководство по ремонту Toyota FJ60 (EN)

How to Desmog an FJ60 This document tries to describe how to desmog an FJ60 2F engine while keeping the HAC, HIC, HAI, PCV, EVAP, AC idle up and deceleration fuel cut systems operational (see the Notes section for descriptions of these systems from the FSM). These instructions are for a vehicle running a stock carburetor, so things will be different if you have anything else. Included here is (i) a Parts List , (ii) a Task List and (iii) detailed information about Vacuum Line Routing including pictures where each port is labeled for reference.

There's also a Reference Material section including the original diagrams from JimC (you're HIGHLY encouraged to study these diagrams until you understand them), and a set of excellent and very useful photos posted by mwebfj60 in the thread " My Desmog Keeping HAC Lots of Pics ". The Parts List should be viewed as something that you can change if you want to approach things differently. There might be better parts/tools for doing a certain thing, so if you see a better way of doing something and are comfortable with it then go for it. Just recognize that, for the most part, you'll need to have some solution for the issue that each part is intended to address.

The Task List is a list of the things that need to be done, in the rough order in which to do them. Think of it more like a check list. The Vacuum Line Routing section is pretty detailed. This seems like the most confusing part and I wanted to be sure it was accurate before tearing into everything and starting to chuck parts in the trash. Nearly all of this information and plan was compiled from reading (and re-reading) " My Desmog Thread " started by mud user fowldarr in November 2007, and as of April 2011 there were 38 pages and 750 posts. The thread has a ton of useful information in it, but is pretty scattered.

This doc grew out of trying to organize what I'd learned from reading the thread, understand what I was going to do before doing it, and wanting to have the parts on hand before starting the actual work. I didn't figure any of this stuff out myself - I just read the thread, organized the info so it would make sense to me, and then wrote it down. The pictures and comments from JimC were essential, and so were all of the comments/discussions between other folks. Some of the other pieces of information here were pulled from the FSM and from other threads on IH8MUD.COM. DISCLAIMER!! I'm not an expert by any stretch and can't promise that these instructions are either complete or correct.

You're on your own. If you have questions you'll get the best results posting your questions on the forum and waiting for answers from the real experts. If you see things in this document that are wrong or could be improved, please PM me on IH8MUD.COM, my username is "borick". WARNING! Tampering with federally mandated emissions control equipment on a street driven vehicle is a federal crime. This information is presented for entertainment purposes only. THANKS! to JimC, not only for all of his invaluable posts on " My Desmog Thread ", but also for reviewing, editing, improving and correcting this very entertaining document. Version 2 / 01-May-2011 Page 1 of 24

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1 Parts List 1.1 Recommended Parts  Plug and Cap set from JimC  AIR pump Idler Pulley from JimC (or de-vane your smog pump)  Silicon vacuum tubing (i.e., from McMaster-Carr): o 3mm: 32 ft (McMaster Carr part #5041K22) o 6mm: 12 ft (McMaster Carr part #5041K24)  Block-off plate and gasket for EGR "J" pipe: o Can make a plate yourself o or buy it from MAF (part# 25601) o or weld a coin of 1” bar stock into the exh manifold EGR opening o or the J pipe can be cut off, end of tube mashed flat and welded shut. o Some people recommend RemFlex gaskets, others prefer the OEM graphite gasket.  Rubber or nylon caps for the AIR fittings on the air cleaner:

o These are included in the Plug/Cap set from JimC 1.2 Optional Parts  Rebuilt & desmogged 81-87 USA spec carb from JimC  Recurved distributor from JimC: o JimC says: the recurve is nice, but not required o Can use an OEM, non-USA, vacuum advance points distributor from SOR, if downgrading from the waterproof electronic ignition is not a concern.

1.3 Fabrication Work  EGR tube that connects the PCV valve to the intake manifold needs plugged o Cutting required o Welding (or JB-Weld) required o Weld a piece of Ѕ” bar in the EGR opening, or use JB-Weld with (i) a pipe cap, or (ii) a bolt and cut off the bolt head after the JB-Weld sets o MAF makes a part to replace this (part #25601-INPLATE); using this part will lose the PCV inlet pipe and mounting point for the carb cooling fan sensor  If not getting this from MAF: o Folks have used 1/8" or 3/16" plate steel to make their own o Trace an outline on the steel using the gasket, cut it out and drill the bolt holes Version 2 / 01-May-2011 Page 2 of 24

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1.4 Other Things You Might Want To Do  Replace air cleaner hex-nut over carburetor with a wing-nut (Toyota PN 90175-06003)  Replace rotten vent hose on top of charcoal canister (Toyota PN 77759-14011)  Replace manifold gasket, with a quality graphite gasket from Remflex, FelPro or Toyota  Adjust valves  Adjust idle, fast idle, and idle mixture 2 Reference Diagrams for Vacuum Line Routing 2.1 Air Cleaner 2.1.1 Air Cleaner Cover There are 3 vacuum ports on the air cleaner lid on the driver side, above the carburetor. All three of these are vents to atmosphere, so it doesn't matter which port is used.

There is also one larger port on the passenger side of the air cleaner lid, used for the distributor vent. Version 2 / 01-May-2011 Page 3 of 24

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2.1.2 HIC and HAI This diagram shows the location of the HIC and how the HIC ports are labeled. It also shows the location of the HAI diaphragm and PCV valve, and the routing of vacuum lines from the HIC to the HAI and PCV. There are two ports on the HIC and one port on the HAI. Version 2 / 01-May-2011 Page 4 of 24

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