Руководство по установке EFI системы на Toyota FJ40 (EN)

Installing a 3FE Stroker in a 1969 FJ40 Daunting was my first impression of this project. But, the more I dove into it, the less anxiety I had. The two publications I used were the factory service manual for a 1989 FJ62, and the 1988 New Car Features publication available as a PDF. In my opinion, this project cannot be accomplished without those two documents. The 1988 New Car Features publication contains lots of functional information that was used to understand how the EFI worked. I’m going to describe here what I did, the steps taken to make the conversion from carburetor to 3FE EFI. What I started with was a 1986 2F. What I bolted on was the necessary parts from a 1989 FJ62.

There are, of course, other ways to accomplish the same result. I’m simply going to describe how I installed the 3FE EFI and resolved some of the issues. It’s nothing a little creativity can’t solve. Some examples include the fuel line behind the head, disabling the EGR, hooking up the VSV for the fuel pressure regulator, selection of the fuel pump, how to filter the air, solving the speed sensor issue, elimination of vacuum lines, and routing those lines I kept. I also had an issue with the brakes. I need to note that parts on a 1988 FJ62 EFI system are slightly different than those used in 1989/90.

Also, the system in the FJ80s are even more different and I have no experience with those but suspect it would be a similar installation (I know the coil/ignitor is different). The two major EFI differences I found between 1988 and 1989/90 are: • The water temperature switch and the cold start time switch, while functionally the same, uses a different connector. • There is one connector under the dash that is different. The 1988 uses a two wire connector, while in 1989/90 it’s a seven wire connector. • While not connected to the EFI, the VSVs for the 4WD are also different between these two years. Other than those items, everything else is the same.

Before I start tossing out too much jargon I might as well give some definitions. EFI : Electronic Fuel Injection ECU : Electronic Control Unit (computer) AFM : Air Flow Meter TPS : Throttle Position Sensor ISC : Idle Speed Control valve VSV : Vacuum Switching Valve VCV : AI : Air injection control (smog pump) EGR : Exhaust Gas Recirculation system PCV : Pollution Control Valve VSS : Vehicle Speed Sensor

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To do this conversion I harvested from a donor FJ62: • The head with thermostat housing, tubes, sensors, and switches. • Exhaust manifolds. • Exhaust flanges. • Ox sensor flanges. • Complete induction, including throttle body with TPS, ISC, along with all hoses, and tubes. • AFM with air tube to throttle body and attached hoses. • The air box is optional, and I didn’t use it. • Fuel rail with injectors, regulator, and damper. • Fuel lines at the front and back of the valve cover that attach to the fuel rail at the damper and the regulator. Don’t bend them getting the head off. • ECU from behind the glove box. 89661-60021 (89661-60020 in 1988) • Throttle pedal. I also got the hand throttle.

• Throttle cable. • Main computer relay located under the airbox. 85915-60010 • Circuit Open Relay located in the passenger side kick panel. 85910-14020 • Coil with ignitor. • Distributor. There are no aftermarket alternatives at this time. • Engine wire harness. • Main harness that runs under the dash from the fuse block to under the hood • VSV for the fuel pressure regulator. It’s part of a 3-way block of VSVs on the driver’s fender. I’ll discuss this in more detail later. • If installed in a smog equipped truck the AI and EGR systems will need to be harvested too. • Heater distribution pipes that run on the passenger side of the valve cover attached to head. • Fuel pump block off plate.

I made my own. • All of the little things associated with the above. • The 1986 motor already had the 2F side cover with the indent for the large cap distributor. This will not be provided by the FJ62 donor. • The 2F also needs to have flat-top pistions. Early dome top pistons will not work with the 3FE head. It’s a good idea to get as many of the hoses as possible. In some cases harvesting was easier if I cut some hoses and replaced them later. I found that most of them are not that expensive from the dealer. Disabling Emissions Since my motor went into a smog-exempt 1969 FJ40 I choose not to install the EGR and AI systems.

This significantly simplified the motor and kept the space under the hood tidy. Disabling the EGR is one area where there are multiple solutions. Others have used threaded caps and block off plates. My solution was to pound in expansion plugs (Figs. 1 & 2). There were two I needed. One goes on the fitting on the exhaust manifold (.75”), and the other goes on the plenum where the EGR valve lived (.829”/21mm). Both are a tight squeeze, but they fit. This was a clean and cheap solution.

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For the AI system the ports on the head need to be plugged. Rather than using brass NPT plugs I choose to use the Toyota part. The 3FE head only has four cylinders attached to the injection rail. The other two, used on 2F motors, are sealed with an allen-head plug. These are available from Toyota, part number 90340-14001 (Fig. 3). I suspect BSPT (metric) plugs would also work and would be cheaper than the dealer (about $2 each from McMaster-Carr). Again, simple and clean. Charcoal Canister This was an interesting setup. On mini-trucks there is a vapor line from the tank that goes to the canister. There is a second line that runs from the canister to the throttle body.

On the 3FE, there is a VCV that sits between the line from the throttle body and the canister. This was retained. I only made one minor change. One line from the VCV goes to the airbox. Because the airbox was not used I just installed a small filter from a VSV on the port. PCV The 3FE uses different PCV plumbing than the 2F. The easiest solution was to keep the 3FE connection from the PCV on the valve cover to the plenum. The PCV connects to the 2F on the side cover. What I did was cut off the tube from the side cover and weld in a bolt head to fill the hole. I probably could have cut it down further and made it flush with the cover as the tube does recess a bit into the side cover.

The bump looks OK (Fig. 4). Fuel Pump and Delivery (draft) For the 3FE EFI I needed a fuel pump that puts out 43 PSI. In the aftermarket, several 45 PSI pumps are available. (Fig.5) Bla, bla, bla. Still trying to figure this out. Air Filter At first I wanted to retain the FJ62 air box, but realized that without moving the battery it wasn’t going to happen. Fortunately, many of the parts on the 3FE are similar to those on the 7M motor used in the Supra. I bought on Ebay an adaptor that allowed me to bolt up a cone filter to the 3FE AFM. This was a simple solution.

I am concerned about filtering and am looking at a pre-filter to fit over the cone, and possibility a larger Amsoil cone filter which might filter better. (Fig. 6) The other thing I did was shorten the run from the AFM to the throttle body. The air tube from the AFM to the throttle body consists of three pieces. Attached to the AFM is a bent rubber hose with a fitting for the ISC. It actually contains a steel fitting to connect the larger hose to the smaller hose running to the ISC. Attached to that is a steel pipe with a fitting for the valve cover breather. Then between the steel pipe and the throttle body is another bent rubber hose.

What I did was take the short metal connector for the ISC and weld it into the metal pipe so there was a port for the breather and a port for the ISC (Fig. 8). I then bought a 3” silicone coupling at Autozone to connect the AFM to the metal pipe. I found the silicone coupling in the performance section at most auto-parts stores. The AFM and steel pipe are just slightly larger than 3” so I used a heat gun to warm up the coupling so it would slip on easier.

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Gas Pedal I acquired the gas pedal from the FJ62. This is another part that’s different between 1988 and 1989/90, at least with how the hand throttle hooks up. The attachment of the throttle cable from under the hood is the same. I modified my firewall to accept the new throttle pedal and the mount for the cable. Engine Wire Harness As I said, there are two harnesses. This harness was used unmolested. I just hooked it up to the sensors and ran it though the firewall to the ECU. There is one connector next to the ECU connectors that connects to the main harness on 1989 harnesses. This connector is different between the 1988 and the 1989/90 harnesses (Fig. 7a, b, c).

The EFI harness hooked up the majority of the EFI items on the motor. This included the fuel injectors, cold start injector, both Ox sensors, cold start time switch, water temperature switch, water temperature sensor, water temperature sender, TPS, ISC, distributor, and two connectors for the ECU. On the 1988 harness there are two connectors. One is a two wire connector located next to the ECU connectors. The second is a five wire connector located next to the diagnostic box under the hood. Functionally, these two have the same job as the single 7 wire used in 1989. Main Harness This was, by far, the most intimidating part of the conversion.

I don’t think it can be done without the wire diagram in the factory service manual. The main harness contains just about everything … headlights, horn, turn signals, gauges, heater, and way too much more. The items I needed from this harness included the connectors for the ECU, air flow meter, ignitor, main relay, circuit open relay, and VSVs (see table for complete list). In addition there were wires necessary for hooking up power from the fuse block, the speed sensor, the 4WD signal, brake light switch, and ground. I marked these connectors before I started. Beginning at the ECU connector I unwrapped the harness and tracing the wires to each component.

It took several hours and I did make a few mistakes. Hopefully, this write-up will save you some time as others can quickly identify what items are important and those that are not. Mounting ECU Glove box. Speed Sensor I fretted over this for many months. Some folks said it wasn’t needed. Some said it was required. The documentation I had was vague. So, while at the boneyard I pulled the speedometer from an FJ62 and took it home. I then hooked up my multi-meter, set it to continuity/beep, and spun the speedometer. It pulsed four times per revolution. I had already acquired the VSS for the Autometer electronic speedometer.

It consisted of a 16-pulse square wave VSS and a custom cable to connect to the transfer case. What I needed for the ECU was a reed-switch type VSS that produced 4 pulses. The ECU VSS runs piggyback with the speedometer VSS (Fig. 9). Again, my fretting was for nothing. The

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